Transforming traditional Malaysian songket into contemporary songket for broader apparel usage
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Date
2007
Authors
Ngo, Siok Kheng, June
Journal Title
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Abstract
Today, the Malaysian songket weaving industry faces stiff competition
from the machine mass-produced songket. As such, there is a need to
transform the existing traditional Malaysian songket into an innovative product
for broader apparel usage. Therefore, it is appropriate and timely that a
research on weaving materials and textile production process be carried out in
order to assist the songket cottage industry to remain competitive and to
broaden its usage by creating the potentially viable contemporary lightweight
songket. This can be achieved by incorporating science and creativity in the
production of contemporary songket without sacrificing the songket original
aesthetic and uniqueness.
In essence, the researcher has undergone 5 stages of research
methods. They are (i) literature review and sponsorship, (ii) case studies, (iii)
research and development experiments, (iv) conducting interviews and finally
(v) findings and conclusions. A total of five comparative case studies have been
executed. Three case studies were executed in Kuala Terengganu, Terengganu
while the remaining case studies were carried out in Kuching, Sarawak. The
set-up and skill levels of the songket weavers involved in the case studies vary
from one another. In order to achieve the objectives of the research, theory of
adult learning is applied when working with weavers to create the light-weight
songket.
Different combinations of un-degummed filament silk, high twists silk,
cotton and metallic yarns have been used to weave the light-weight songket.
The traditional songket loom and motifs are utilised throughout the five case
studies. Shibori and Devoré techniques as well as mercerisation and
degumming processes are then applied to the light-weight songket that have
been woven earlier. The experiments carried out would value-add and further
enhance the textures and dimensions of the songket fabrics. This effort has
resulted in the successful production of contemporary light-weight songket with
good draping qualities suitable for broader apparel usage.
Description
PhD
Keywords
Art , Malaysian songket , contemporary songket , apparel usage